here is one update I never posted, new classic style steel wheels with
original hub caps, replacing the too wide 8" JRwheels that were on their
previously
the ride height is a bit higher than stock, which I plan to lower down, but that is pretty far down the priority list.
EV conversion 2013 VW
Friday, October 16, 2015
old wheels, outdoor photos
My homemade paint job. The pictures look better than the real thing mainly because it needs more coats.
White bumpers need to go to chrome SOON. I changed to blue because it is a daily driver and the Orange and White was too loud for my tastes. The chassis is too high in the front because I don't have many batteries up there, and it's too high in back because I had extended the shackles before I got better leaf springs, so I need to remove the shackle extensions.
The hood shows a little of the ghetto style paint job which is currently too thin, but acrylic laquer blends nicely so I can add more coats to get that looking better. It's garaged while this coat drys (and shrinks?) My paint knowledge is VERY amateur.
White bumpers need to go to chrome SOON. I changed to blue because it is a daily driver and the Orange and White was too loud for my tastes. The chassis is too high in the front because I don't have many batteries up there, and it's too high in back because I had extended the shackles before I got better leaf springs, so I need to remove the shackle extensions.
The hood shows a little of the ghetto style paint job which is currently too thin, but acrylic laquer blends nicely so I can add more coats to get that looking better. It's garaged while this coat drys (and shrinks?) My paint knowledge is VERY amateur.
Cortina paint etc
I haven't updated this blog lately, sorry, only been updating the carforums link, which is here: http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/1965-ford-cortina-mk1-build-thread-112578p2.html
But here is the update:
But here is the update:
Fans of Orange and White should look away!
I sanded and primed my car black prep for a Bahama Blue coat. I still need to sand the primer with some 1k grit. And finally some warmer weather should be good to spray some blue.
I sanded and primed my car black prep for a Bahama Blue coat. I still need to sand the primer with some 1k grit. And finally some warmer weather should be good to spray some blue.
Tuesday, December 9, 2014
arduino project
I'm working on an idea for my own BMS (battery management system), here is some details on my initial research:
last night I started prototyping with this device I purchased ($20)
http://www.rfduino.com/product/rfd22102-rfduino-dip/
I originally purchased an adafruit BLE shield to use with a Arduino Micro/Trinket but I broke it during assembly/testing. So the RFduino will be the first proto child.
Step 1 initial software setup: I got the RFduino loaded up with a template "sketch" software and broadcasting from a standalone battery. the template looks similar to this: https://github.com/RFduino/RFduino/b...e/Template.ino
Step2: communication: Got the free tester Android app installed and was able to send and receive data to my phone. link to Andriod tester: https://github.com/lann/RFDuinoTest/releases
added code to Arduino sketch code template:
void RFduinoBLE_onReceive(char *data, int len)
{
// anytime we receive a char from Andriod we send back the only useful data we have at the moment
//read pins 5 and 6 and report integer from 0 to 1023
int vlt;
vlt = analogRead(6);
RFduinoBLE.send(vlt);
vlt = analogRead(5);
RFduinoBLE.send(vlt);
}
step3: measure something real and report.
I learned the microcontroler cannot measure it's own supply voltage without help. Either use a voltage divider or an external reference. The divider formula is?
Vout = Vin * (R2 / (R2 + R1)) *edit* due to voltage sag this could be too innacurate except in comparing relative readings across all cells. For any decisions on shunting/balancing, we would need to multiply and regulate the supply? so measurements can be useful.
step4: see if the measurement can be added to the bluetooth broadcasted device name so there is no connection needed and the andriod device can simply scan all device names, then pick one to connect to when desired. eg.
RFduinoBLE.advertisementData = "vCell1"; //but real voltage in there somewhere
last night I started prototyping with this device I purchased ($20)
http://www.rfduino.com/product/rfd22102-rfduino-dip/
I originally purchased an adafruit BLE shield to use with a Arduino Micro/Trinket but I broke it during assembly/testing. So the RFduino will be the first proto child.
Step 1 initial software setup: I got the RFduino loaded up with a template "sketch" software and broadcasting from a standalone battery. the template looks similar to this: https://github.com/RFduino/RFduino/b...e/Template.ino
Step2: communication: Got the free tester Android app installed and was able to send and receive data to my phone. link to Andriod tester: https://github.com/lann/RFDuinoTest/releases
added code to Arduino sketch code template:
void RFduinoBLE_onReceive(char *data, int len)
{
// anytime we receive a char from Andriod we send back the only useful data we have at the moment
//read pins 5 and 6 and report integer from 0 to 1023
int vlt;
vlt = analogRead(6);
RFduinoBLE.send(vlt);
vlt = analogRead(5);
RFduinoBLE.send(vlt);
}
step3: measure something real and report.
I learned the microcontroler cannot measure it's own supply voltage without help. Either use a voltage divider or an external reference. The divider formula is?
Vout = Vin * (R2 / (R2 + R1)) *edit* due to voltage sag this could be too innacurate except in comparing relative readings across all cells. For any decisions on shunting/balancing, we would need to multiply and regulate the supply? so measurements can be useful.
step4: see if the measurement can be added to the bluetooth broadcasted device name so there is no connection needed and the andriod device can simply scan all device names, then pick one to connect to when desired. eg.
RFduinoBLE.advertisementData = "vCell1"; //but real voltage in there somewhere
Friday, November 21, 2014
round trip to work
I drove the 32 miles round trip to work without any charging along the way.
Last night my daughter had to rescue me by following me home in the dark with her Camry since my car reportedly had "no taillights" which turned out to really be "dim taillights". So I need to put new clean connectors on along with the LED taillights I recently purchased but have not yet installed. This weekend!
josh
Last night my daughter had to rescue me by following me home in the dark with her Camry since my car reportedly had "no taillights" which turned out to really be "dim taillights". So I need to put new clean connectors on along with the LED taillights I recently purchased but have not yet installed. This weekend!
josh
Tuesday, October 14, 2014
Rear battery boxes
I completely scrapped the location of batteries in the rear passenger
seating area. This poses two problems, first batteries favorite
position is not laying sideways but standing upright. Second the
limited space made me forget about padding and the batteries were fixes
very tightly. I've since learned that someday somewhere in some car, a
battery will bloat, and if there is no side to side room whatsoever,
cracking may ensue. Finally having 4 cable runs to facilitate 4
locations for blocks of batteries is hard to deal with from a BMS
standpoint, and also could cause minor issues with charging. In short
complication rarely pays off. So keeping 26 cells in the front for now,
everything else will go in back.
Just starting new rear boxes:
Bending metal with break thingy...
Rubber mounting, I got some flat rubber , kinda looks like tire rubber but has thread instead of steel inside it.
Unexpected Feline Supervisor:
comparision of welded boxes to bend metal with no sides yet:
I cut a massive hole in the rear trunk area sheet metal of my Cortina, where the old gas tank hole was. The new much larger hole runs in-between the leaf springs and just behind the rear differential.
Cut, bent and welded a bunch of 16 gauge steel sheet (wore a respirator for the galvanized pieces). Thus creating 5 horizontal boxes which hang down 5 inches from the original trunk floor. The boxes hold horizontal parallel rows of batteries, which finally appear like one square pack, except for a small gap for the final row making room for the leaf spring shackles.
The leaf does not pass under the boxes, the edges of both are 1 inch apart.
I also removed the leaf springs and delivered them to Denver Spring company to have one leaf added. I had previously lengthened my spring shackles which made my car driveable but the leafs were flat, not good.
I have not painted the boxes, some are galvinized which helps but some are raw steel and need primer. Plus all the cracks etc need foam padding and/or some method of sealant.
Then finally a magic wand is needed to create "the perfect lid", for starters that will end up being some plywood lined with foam from the battery shipping boxes.
Just starting new rear boxes:
Bending metal with break thingy...
Rubber mounting, I got some flat rubber , kinda looks like tire rubber but has thread instead of steel inside it.
Unexpected Feline Supervisor:
comparision of welded boxes to bend metal with no sides yet:
I cut a massive hole in the rear trunk area sheet metal of my Cortina, where the old gas tank hole was. The new much larger hole runs in-between the leaf springs and just behind the rear differential.
Cut, bent and welded a bunch of 16 gauge steel sheet (wore a respirator for the galvanized pieces). Thus creating 5 horizontal boxes which hang down 5 inches from the original trunk floor. The boxes hold horizontal parallel rows of batteries, which finally appear like one square pack, except for a small gap for the final row making room for the leaf spring shackles.
The leaf does not pass under the boxes, the edges of both are 1 inch apart.
I also removed the leaf springs and delivered them to Denver Spring company to have one leaf added. I had previously lengthened my spring shackles which made my car driveable but the leafs were flat, not good.
I have not painted the boxes, some are galvinized which helps but some are raw steel and need primer. Plus all the cracks etc need foam padding and/or some method of sealant.
Then finally a magic wand is needed to create "the perfect lid", for starters that will end up being some plywood lined with foam from the battery shipping boxes.
Thursday, September 11, 2014
It's been a while since the last post, but there has been LOTS of work done. Mainly with updated motor mounts, and purchasing an industrial strength motor adapter and coupling. Also finally getting the flywheel sorted out and balanced. Building my own engine hoist, organizing my garage! (an ever ongoing cause). Got temp registration, etc. Pictures coming!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)